Galettes, Leeks, Nutmeg, Camembert

The sour, nuttiness of buckwheat pancakes to my somewhat protestant palate has more appeal than the gianduja and Chantilly-soaked confections much beloved of creperies in tourist towns. An autumnal supper this, comforting and indulgent, for when you are in the mood for some gentle culinary ‘doings’. A rocket or spinach salad will be welcome here, the whack of vegetal green serving as a small sop to the richness of the cheese and crème fraiche. Likewise, anything in the radicchio line would be very welcome.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

80g Buckwheat Flour (Treblec for preference)

5 Eggs

250ml Milk

Olive Oil or Butter (For frying)

4 Leeks (large, thoroughly washed, tough outer leaves and ends removed, finely sliced)

3 Cloves Garlic (Finely chopped or grated, as you wish)

Whole Nutmeg (For grating. We will not use the whole thing, get a hold of yourself)

300ml Crème Fraiche (The stuff that is roughly the texture of clotted cream produced by folks like Réo is ideal, and entirely different to the alpine white and resigned effort found in many British supermarkets. In a pinch you could also use double or single cream though that characteristic lactic tang will be missing. A pity)

Camembert (Cubed. As much as you please. In a surprise to no-one, I would not shy away from using a whole small wheel here if serving four)

50g Gruyere (Or similar nutty cheese, finely grated)

Sea Salt, Black Pepper

Method:

1)      Make the galette batter: Whisk together your eggs, milk and flour with a pinch of salt until smooth and lump free. You can do this in a KitchenAid or similar if you wish but I find that takes some of the joy out of it (not so meringues or, god forbid, mayonnaise). Pour into a jug and allow to sit in your fridge (Purists will recommend you do this the day before or for at least 12 hours in order for the flour to hydrate. I personally have never gleaned this far in advance that I will want a galette at some point in the future. An hour is probably plenty, more even better).

2)      Make the filling: sauté the sliced leeks in a generous amount of butter or olive oil over a medium to low heat until soft and translucent. At this point add the garlic and continue to sauté until the garlic is just threatening to turn golden. Add 150ml of the crème fraiche, a generous grating of nutmeg, pinch of salt and cracked black pepper to taste.

3)      Cook the galettes: Place a generously sized frying pan over a medium heat. When at temperature brush with butter. Once the butter is sizzling, pour in a ladleful of your batter mixture swirling the pan energetically to allow the mixture to coat the bottom. If you have one of those ‘t’ shaped wooden implements dextrously wielded on galette vans all over France now is the time to deploy it, in search of an elegantly slender galette. I wish you joy of it. For myself I swirl and hope. Cook the galette for two minutes on one side, then use a palette knife to flip and cook the remaining side for one minute or until pleasantly browned. Repeat until the mixture has been used, stacking the galettes with greaseproof between them.

4)      Fill and bake: Preheat the oven to 180c. Spoon a generous amount of the leek mixture onto one side of your galette, scatter with cubed camembert, and roll it up, encasing the leeks with the pancake. Place in a small lightly buttered gratin dish. Repeat with the remaining galettes and leek mixture, packing the rolls in snuggly. Spoon the remaining crème fraiche over the rolled galettes, sprinkle over your gruyere and bake in a hot oven for 10-15 minutes.