Betterave than Never (Beetroot, Fennel and Apple Slaw)

With our hosts away, and feeling the weight of responsibility for the potager, in its awkward adolescence of autumn, we have felt the need for recipes which help us do the produce justice without feeling like we are doing a penance (anyone who has ever doggedly worked their way through a marrow will understand me. I once made a marrow martini. I do not judge. [do not do this. It was vile. I think, on dark days, I can still taste it].) As such, with beetroot and apples abundant in the late October sun, here is a slaw which will keep well in the fridge and provide a bevy of lunch time options. I served this initially with yeasted blinis and cured fish and that was very good indeed, but it is equally pleasing on toast, with grilled cheese of the brie/camembert persuasion. For this reason it is not the mayonnaise heavy slaw beloved of summer BBQs and, actually, myself, but a mustard-centric earthy tangle of veg which lends it a little more flexibility. There is a good deal of boiling, chopping, peeling etc here but if you are in the mood for that kind of kitchen business you will enjoy yourself. Incidentally the French word for ‘beetroot’ is ‘betterave’. I do not promise a rave but you will have an enjoyable supper.

Makes an excess. Invite friends for lunch or get inventive.

Method:

Wash a significant quantity of raw beetroot. I mean we had an embarrassment, I went wild. Go with your judgement. Top and tail it, put it in salted water, and simmer it for around 40 minutes until it is tender to the point of a sharp knife all the way through. Let it cool, and then slip the skins off under running water. Slice into slim lengths. Peel, core and slice into slender matchsticks 3 small apples. Finely slice 1 red onion and 1 bulb of fennel. Include the feathery fronds, they really are the best bit. Combine, along with the juice of 1 lemon, a pinch of salt, a few tablespoons of cider vinegar, and four good tablespoons of grain mustard. Mix well. If you wish to take this in a Scandinavian direction (and who could blame you) I recommend finely chopping a packet of dill and stirring this through at the last. Dill was there none in Intermarche and so here we are.